Despite its Victorian-torture-device aesthetic, ‘dermarolling’ is a conversation topic that keeps popping up in our office, and on Instagram. From Kim K’s vampire facial, to the rise in microneedling treatments, it seems we’re all seeking that radiant glow invasive procedures offer. So, what can you expect from an at-home dermaroller and, more importantly, is it going to hurt?
By Rachel Spedding
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1 What is it?
The handheld tool is covered in teeny needles – around 0.5mm in length – that rotate across the skin, creating very tiny punctures to the surface. These micro-injuries increase blood flow, and the production of collagen and elastin (for ‘healing’ the injuries), which makes for tighter, plumper skin. And a more even complexion.
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2 Who's it for?
Needling treatments work to surface ‘fresh skin’, so can help to remedy acne scarring or discolouration. Also, as the process thickens and plumps the skin, it can help to relieve under eye bags and the appearance of dark circles. If you’re used to applying skincare products like serums and oils – my bathroom shelf is my safe place – then, good news, dermarolling encourages ingredient absorption. Get all that retinol goodness further beneath the skin’s surface.
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3 Will it hurt?
Unless your skin is super sensitive – and if it is, it’s best to avoid invasive treatments, regardless – you’ll unlikely feel any pain. After all, dermarolling is minimally invasive, and the needles are super small; find a ruler (throwback) to see just how small 0.5mm is. That said, it is needles rolling across your face, so you will feel something. A professional microneedling treatment may cause a little more discomfort, there’s more on that below.
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4 How do I use it?
Cleanse before rolling – this is essential. Pull your skin gently, until it’s slightly taut, and roll the tool with light pressure. horizontally, across the forehead, cheeks, and chin. Then do the same vertically. The process should take around four minutes, then follow with your usual serum – I’d suggest vitamin C, or hyaluronic acid. Both will aid with ‘brightening’. It’s best to roll at night, before bed, to avoid sun exposure. Plus, it’s nice to wake up feeling extra glowy.
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5 Is it different to microneedling
The process of needles creating micro-injuries in the skin is the same. Both will encourage plumped-up, radiant skin, and both will leave you a little red post-treatment. The real difference is leaving it to an expert. A professional microneedling treatment usually includes the use of numbing cream, to prepare your skin for the larger needles used. When it comes to the ‘invasive stuff’ (anything penetrating the skin), I’d always recommend heading to a pro.
The verdict: dermarolling looks fun, and I’m all for a quick-win, but when it comes to my skin, I’d rather an expert was holding the needles.
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